A month ago we took delivery of two vitellone (young beef), each around 600 lbs., from Mac Magruder. Primarily raised on mother’s milk with some grass-feeding, the meat has been aging in our meat locker. Chef Canales has been adjusting his aging times to find the right balance between the delicate veal, and the characteristic aged-meat flavors. Tonight we will be using the loin, and Friday we will be serving the rib eye. They will be on the menu as tagliata, served with braised Torpedo onions from Brookside Farm in Brentwood. These animals are fairly small, and there isn’t a huge amount of this meat. We might still have some on Saturday, but perhaps not.

If we’re out by the time you get here, we hope you’ll be consoled by ravioli tondi of fonduta Val d’Aostana with summer Chanterelles:

Ravioli tondi of fonduta Val d’Aostana with Chanterelle mushrooms

Most of the Chanterelles available this time of year are from Eastern Europe. We’ve been holding out for the ones we get from Northern California and Oregon, and they’ve just arrived. These Chanterelles are drier and more concentrated, with a nutty flavor. In addition to the pasta, we’ll also be serving them in a ragout with late summer vegetables and orange-scented black and white riso.