Market Update: INTENSE Season equals INTENSE Produce

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Although the weather has taken a cooler turn in the past week, the produce at the South Berkeley Farmers’ Market yesterday was the product of an unusually hot season that got off to an early start with a number of heatwaves that began back in May. Instead of a steady trickle of new harvests, things seem to be arriving all at once with peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, (all those heat-loving plants) taking the lead.

Melon display from Riverdog Farm - July 2013

Melon display from Riverdog Farm. July 2013

Not to be outdone, the melons this year are outrageous. Both Full Belly Farm and Riverdog Farm had incredible displays that heavily perfumed both ends of the market like fragrant book-ends. When asked to describe this year’s season, Judith Redmond blew a lock of hair from her forehead and said, “INTENSE.”

On the menu starting tonight:

Salad of Canary melon, Armenian cucumbers, anise hyssop, and 30-month prosciutto

Roast breast of hen with eggplant purée, Jimmy Nardello peperonata, and salmariglio

Yay summer!

This Just In: Tomato Season is Early; Tomato Pastas on the Menu

spaghettini with tomatoes

Spaghettini with Santa Barbara sea urchin, Full Belly Farm tomato, pancetta, and hot pepper

We’re surprised, to say the least. Tomatoes, already?

After two years of late seasons, what do we see? These beautiful spaghettini and paccheri pasta dishes, both featuring ripe tomatoes from Full Belly Farm. Just in time for the summer solstice.

It’s unusual to see tomatoes in June normally, but it’s even more startling to see tomatoes this good this early. It’s an exciting sign for us — the transition from a spring to summer menu has begun.

More updates to come as the season continues…and we work our way towards Tomato Dinners.

paccheripasta_with tomatoes
Paccheri with Full Belly Farm cherry tomatoes, eggplant, Calabrian chili, and smoked mozzarella

Call (510) 547-5356 or reserve online

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Want to meet the woman behind the tomatoes and other amazing produce on the Oliveto menu?

Farmer Judith Redmond of Full Belly Farm will be here, with her husband and partner Andrew Brait, on Monday, June 24, for a special, intimate dinner in our Siena Room. A couple spots are still open: Join us and enjoy a prix fixe menu full of peak Full Belly produce, plus a chance for conversation with one of our great local farm institutions.

See the full menu, pricing, and more details here.

Call (510) 547-5356 for reservations. Please note there will be one seating at 6:30pm.

 

2017-09-12T15:47:41-07:00June 20th, 2013|Market Reports, Summer|0 Comments

This Just In: Morels Update, Ramps, Fava Beans, Peas…

H. Krisp, via Wikimedia Commons

The morel season is just getting started, and within a week or two it will really explode. This will be a good year for morels — there have been plenty of forest fires, and if it doesn’t stay too dry we can probably expect to see them through July.

Currently, Chef Jonah has a limited amount of morels from the Mt. Shasta area: they are on the menu (as long as they last) in a dish of poached hen egg, potato hash cake, ramps, and asparagus. Keep an eye out for more in the next few weeks!

As far as spring goes, we are seeing our favorites all over the farmers’ markets, and subsequently, the Oliveto dinner menu. Favas, ramps, snow peas, asparagus…it’s a real springtime menu now, as shown with dishes like the antipasto of English peas, asparagus, and ramps with burrata and basil pesto.

burrata and basil peburrata and basil pesto
2017-09-12T15:47:45-07:00April 22nd, 2013|2013, Market Reports, Spring, This Just In|0 Comments

Season Update: Strawberries!

Yerena Farm out in Watsonville had their first pick of the season on display last week at The Heart of the City Farmer's Market in San Francisco, and expect a good season.

First pick of the season berries from Yerena Farm in Watsonville

Thanks to the warm and relatively dry spring, strawberries are slowly starting to make their appearance in farmer’s markets around the Bay Area. California produces over 80% of the nation’s strawberries, and we can’t wait to get our hands on them.

Our friends Karen and Bob at Lucero Organic Farm in Lodi say the berries they planted in December are just around the corner from being ready. Karen predicts in a week they’ll be at farmer’s market in Berkeley, with the high season hitting in May.

Lucero grows Seascape strawberries, a small and flavorful breed, which like most strawberries grown in California was developed by the UC Davis Strawberry Breeding Program. The farm lets the plants “struggle,” which means the plants have to search hard in the soil for nutrients. This gives the berries a lot of really good flavor with a distinct sweetness. As the season progresses, the plants “struggle” more, and their berries get smaller and sweeter. Karen loves to crush them up and put them in milk, like a strawberry milkshake without all the sugar.

Look for strawberries at Oliveto menu in the coming weeks — once Chef Jonah finds the perfect flat of ripe berries, you can bet they’ll be appearing on the menu.

2017-09-12T15:47:45-07:00April 8th, 2013|2013, Market Reports, Spring|0 Comments

Organic Citrus: Fingers Crossed

via Wikimedia Commons

It’s been a tense year for citrus growers since a case of Huounlongbing (HLB) disease was detected on a Los Angeles backyard pomelo tree in March 2012. HLB, though harmless to humans, is deadly to citrus trees. The disease is spread through the Asian Citrus Psyllid (ACP), an aphid-like pest, which been found in groves throughout the Southern US, Mexico, and many other countries.

So far, no new cases of HLB have been reported, but the ACP pest has been found in groves in San Bernadino, Ventura, Los Angeles, Orange, and Imperial counties, where it is currently under eradication. In November 2012, ACP was found in the San Joaquin Valley, resulting in a quarantine. Eradicating the ACP pest is only possible through tree removal, new planting of uninfected trees, and, of most concern to organic growers, heavy use of pesticides.

We recently had a talk with our friend Bill Fuijmotothe go-to man for produce, and he shared a few insights on what we might expect for the future of organic citrus in California.

Since ACP and HLB are so devastating, and in fact have almost wiped out Florida’s citrus industry, California citrus farmers at risk for infection will be taking every precaution to protect their groves. Since this might include heavy insecticide sprays, Bill says if ACP continues to spread, organically grown California citrus may become hard, or even near impossible, to find in the coming years.

Citrus farmers like Jim Churchill and Lisa Brenneis of Churchill Orchards in Ojai have so far been unaffected by ACP, but say they remain worried, especially after nearly losing their tangerine crop to freeze this year.

We will keep our fingers crossed and our eyes open.

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If you have citrus trees, learn to spot the signs of ACP and HLB, and report possible symptoms to the California Department of Food and Agriculture with their “Save Our Citrus” app.

2017-09-12T15:47:46-07:00April 1st, 2013|Market Reports, Spring|0 Comments

This Just In: Spring!

via Wikimedia Commons

Last year, heavy rainstorms and wet weather delayed the start of spring until late April for some farms. However, this year has proven warm and dry, and our friend/produce expert Bill Fuijmoto reports that farms all over California — especially in the Delta, Sacramento, the Capay Valley, and Salinas — are looking forward to a great season.

As the season continues to unfold (the equinox is in two days!), you’ll see a fundamental shift in the Oliveto menu as we transition from a hearty winter to a glorious produce-packed spring. Already we’re starting to welcome fresh familiar flavors like new asparagus, spring onions, and fava greens.

In the south, at our friend Martin Bournhonesque’s farm in Monterey, warm weather has already brought the season’s first asparagus and spring onions. You’ll find these tender signs of spring at Oliveto in dishes like Chef Jonah’s Hedgehog mushroom salad, conchiglie with smoked trout, and involtino of Swiss chard.

Also on the menu are fresh fava greens from Tairwa’-Knoll Farms in Brentwood. Chef Jonah has paired them with pan-roasted striped bass with onion crema, spring onions, asparagus, and black truffle-poultry sugo for a real taste of the burgeoning season.

Make reservations online for dinner, or call us at 510.547.5356.

2017-09-12T15:47:47-07:00March 18th, 2013|Market Reports, Spring|0 Comments

Market Report #8: Tomato Speculation With Bill Fujimoto

We hit up the Derby Street Market last Tuesday with our favorite produce guy, Bill Fujimoto.

We checked in with Full Belly, Lucero, and Riverdog and saw some BEAUTIFUL early eggplants, Black Eyed peas, first watermelons, and Seascape strawberries. We also got the scoop on what everyone is wondering about…TOMATOES. It was interesting to hear from our farmers about their predictions, especially for us, because we’re trying to “plan” as best we can for our upcoming Tomato Dinners.

Because the season this year has been so weird, and speculation about how the season may (or may not) unfold we’re trying something new: two sets of Tomato Dinners. The first set of Early Tomato Season Dinners will run from August 23 – 26, and then after Labor Day a second set of Late Tomato Season Dinners will run from September 13 through September 16.

From a chef’s perspective, great cooking is about responding to ingredients, and this season will be loaded with challenges for Chef Jonah. We’ll keep you updated on how the season(s) progress and what it means for Jonah as the menu begins to take shape.

August or September, there will be stand-out tomatoes to make each menu terrific. Book now.

2017-09-12T15:48:17-07:00August 1st, 2011|Market Reports, Summer|0 Comments

Signs of Summer

DirtyGirl2011

Today marks the first day of Summer 2011 and many signs of the season were on display at the Derby Street Market: fragrant basil, cherry tomatoes from Full Belly, summer squash and those knockout long stem Seascape strawberries from Lucero, and piles of “ripe shamefaced peaches” (had to get in a belated Bloomsday reference) at Blossom Bluff.

But one of the definitive signs that it is truly summer at the Derby Street market is the appearance of our friends from Dirty Girl Produce. And there they were! Right next to a freakin’ harp player!

Seems that Santa Cruz was not as waylaid by rain as it was last year, so most of Dirty Girl’s crops were planted on schedule. Their romanesco was looking particularly lovely today, as well as some smaller bunched broccoli. Coming up: beans. Lots and lots of beans (haricots vert, romano, cannellini, among others) should be arriving from Dirty Girl Produce within the next few weeks. And the official statement on dry-farmed Early Girl tomatoes? ETA: 4-5 weeks.

Market Report #5: Lucero Seascape Strawberries

Lucero_strawberries_2011

They’ve arrived.

Yesterday, we saw the first wave of the Lucero Organic Farm’s amaaazing long stem Seascape strawberries at the Derby St. market in Berkeley. Karen Lucero showed up at 2 p.m. when the market opened, and was sold out within three hours.

Ben Lucero has been growing this same variety of strawberry for years, even after he moved his farm inland from the coast to Lodi. Ben believes that great strawberries are the product of close attention and judicious watering, not a certain variety, location, or climate. As a result, Lucero strawberries are a concentration of bright, vibrant flavor. And a favorite of the Oliveto kitchen.

Fortunately, we were able to snap up a few flats & Chef Jonah has them on the menu already:

Crudo of fluke with basil, strawberry, and almonds; lemon agrumato

Market Report #4: Favas, peas, artichokes, and goat!

baby artichokes

Lots of spring firsts at the Derby Street market yesterday. English peas were in full effect at a number of different stands. As were strawberries, asparagus, and the first baby Fava beans…tender enough that you can eat the shell and everything. Chef Jonah and Chef de Cuisine Malachi bought up some lovely purple asparagus and baby artichokes from Riverdog Farm. Starting tonight, most of these things will be on the menu for the next few days:

Salad of spring vegetables with shaved purple asparagus, arugula, and farro

Sauté of young Fava beans in their pods with garlic and fried shallots

Roast hen rolata with fried baby artichokes

Pan-roasted Alaskan halibut with asparagus, baby fava beans and English peas; chervil-spumante sauce

Also of note, just yesterday we received two young goats from Jeannie McCormack. Goat will be on the menu starting on Friday and through the weekend in the following dishes:

Red Flint corn polenta with ragù of goat heart

Roasted goat chop with tenderloin fritto, whey-braised shoulder, eucalyptus scented peas and new potatoes

2017-09-12T15:48:24-07:00April 20th, 2011|Market Reports, Spring|0 Comments
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