Tomato Dinners 2010 Menu

September 15 – September 18

tomato tasting vertical

Smaller items: salads, soup, antipasti

Best-of-season heirloom tomato tasting

Smoked sea scallops and king salmon with Black Pineapple tomato mousse

Crudo of local halibut, Evergreen and Cherokee Chocolate tomatoes,
candied bacon, and Espelette pepper maionese

Oliveto wild boar prosciutto with Pineapple and Momotaro tomatoes,
wild arugula, and Parmesan

Dry-farmed Early Girl and Persimmon tomatoes with burrata, sea salt,
and Nocellino olive oil

Pannelle with San Marzano tomatoes, basil, hot pepper, and barilotto di bufala

Cherry tomatoes with Castelvetrano olives, purslane,
pine nuts, and Cacioricotta cheese

Farm egg in carrozza stuffed with peperonata,
dry-farmed Early Girl tomatoes, and aïoli

Salad of frisée, pole beans, and wood-oven-roasted Padrón peppers
with tomato cumin vinaigrette

Fried green tomatoes with tomato mayonnaise

Classic tomato soup with Gruyère fritelle

Garden lettuces and herbs vinaigrette

*

Pastas

Sicilian-style ravioli of tomato conserva with Oliveto goat’s milk ricotta,
pine nuts, and marjoram

Moroccan olive taglierini with local sand dabs and roasted cherry tomatoes

Spaghettini aglio, oglio with whole roasted tomatoes studded with garlic

Whole-grain Durum pappardelle with Liberty duck ragù

Riso rosso: riso in red tomato brodo with smoked mozzarella di bufala and basil

Chicche with Chanterelle mushrooms and Cherokee Purple &
Gold Brandywine tomatoes

Trippa di latte: veal tripe braised in tomatoes and Lipstick peppers with whole-grain red winter wheat piadina

*

Grill, Sautée, and Rotisserie

Grilled Beefsteak tomatoes wrapped in pancetta, Paola’s potatoes,
and anchovy & herb sauce

Roast double breast of Liberty duck with Juliet tomato and Italian prune plum mostarda; bacon-straw potato cake

Spit-roasted prime rib of piemontese beef with Italian Butter beans
and tomato horseradish sugo

Charcoal-grilled Maine sea scallops, Georgia white shrimp, and Monterey Bay squid, with Tomales Bay Manila clam & pickled green tomato salsa

Puglian-style lamb shoulder steak braised with Early Girl tomatoes, rosemary, and garlic; scalloped potatoes

Savory tomato custard tart with heirloom tomatoes and wild arugula

Braised Jones Farm rabbit and wild Burgundian snails
with tomatoes confit and black riso

~
Pastry Chef Jenny Raven will provide an awesome array of delicious, original tomato desserts of all sorts.

2017-09-12T15:48:36+00:00September 13th, 2010|2010, Events, Happened already...|0 Comments

Oliveto Beef Dinners 2010

October 14, 15, and 16

For our upcoming beef dinners, we are inviting a few notable local beef ranchers to join us each night so our patrons can meet them. We’re pleased that Mac Magruder will join us on Saturday, October 16th. Mac is probably one of the first grass-fed cattle ranchers in the alternative-to-feedlot era from northern California, and probably well beyond. For the past twenty years he’s been developing a very well-thought-out system of grazing and pasture management, and in the process has invented a business for himself which is enriching all of us. When interest in grass-fed beef took-off several years ago, it was Mac’s beef that showed us how tasty it could be.

Chef Paul Canales has been working with whole beef animals from Mac and other local cattle ranchers for the past three years. He’s been learning about breeds, diet (there’s considerable variation in grass-fed beef), maturity, aging, butchery and how best to cook each cut. So, Paul wanted to present these Beef Dinners as a way of showing some of the various, unexpected, and delicious things he’s learned.

Mac will be here with his wonderful family: wife, Kate, daughter Grace, and Ben–the new son-in-law. They’ll be in the cafe available for chatting from 5 to 6 PM, then have dinner with us upstairs; they’ll be back down in the Café to socialize after dinner.

We’ll be posting additional information/menus, and announce other guest ranchers’ dates in the coming weeks on the Oliveto Community Journal. But we recommend you reserve now.

2017-09-12T15:48:36+00:00September 4th, 2010|2010, Events, Happened already..., Magruder Ranch|0 Comments

Dinner to Celebrate Agua Libre Rum

Coming up next Saturday, August 28th, Lance Winters, distiller for St. George Spirits/Hangar One will be joining us for dinner to celebrate the (limited) release of their Agua Libre Rum.

Rum–Daiquiris, Cuba Libres, and Mai Tais, Oh my! from Oliveto Community on Vimeo.

Made from 100% California sugarcane, pressed fresh in their hangar on the island of Alameda, they have two editions available: the Fresh-Squeezed is a quintessential expression of newly cut cane. The Aged spent two and a half years in French oak.

We’ll be mixing up the rum classics, such as Daiquiris, Cuba Libres, and Mai Tais along with some special concoctions in honor of the occasion. Please join us.

Make a Reservation

2017-09-12T15:48:37+00:00August 19th, 2010|2010, Events, Hangar One, Happened already...|0 Comments

Tasting Notes: La Stoppa

la-stoppa

by Chris Ryerson

One of the best parts of my job is planning out the wines to serve for the variety of special dinners we host throughout the year. However, several weeks ago I was stumped trying to finalize the list of wines to offer during our Balsamico Dinners. Usually, I have some pre-conceived notion of the types of wines I’m looking for; the best choices for the Oceanic, Truffle, and Whole Hog dinners come easily.  Yet, wines that seemed like an intuitive fit with Balsamico weren’t obvious to me.   I decided to go with the idea that wines from the area where Balsamico comes from might be a natural match.  Unfortunately, other than Lambrusco, most of the top wines of Emilia-Romagna didn’t exactly role off my tongue…

After a little research and digging through the portfolios I most trust, I came across the wines of La Stoppa. When I called the importer to inquire, she was practically giddy as she told me more about them: 100% organic and biodynamic, naturally low-yielding older vines grown in poor soil, and a dynamic young owner, Elena Pantaleoni, who is a leader in Italy’s natural wine movement.  The wines seemed to have everything going for them, but I still wasn’t prepared for how impressive they are.

The 2005 Ageno falls squarely into the category of “orange wines,” “oxidized whites,” whatever you want to call them, and it’s one of the best I’ve tried.  Made from Malvasia and Trebbiano soaked on the skins for 30 days with natural yeasts and then aged 12 months in a combination of stainless steel and used French barriques, it greets you with an amazing deep, orangey, brassy color. The Ageno is a study in contrasts. Although the color makes you think the wine will have apparent nutty flavors, it is actually quite fresh, light, and youthful. And even though it has fruit tannins nearly comparable to some red wines, it comes across as quite vibrant and light on its feet. Specific fruit notes are hard to pin down, but the amalgam of other flavors are plenty intriguing: hay, straw, wet tobacco, white tea, and dried flower nuances are all mesmerizing and lead into an amazingly long finish. 162 cases produced.

The 2005 Macchiona is made from equal parts Bonarda and Barbera aged 12 months in ten and twenty hectolitre Slavonian oak casks. The deep, dark, purple color is almost completely opaque. The subtle nose gradually reveals aromas of dark plum, black cherry, wet earthy/mulchy notes, cassis, cocoa powder, subtle baking spice, and even a touch of dried orange peel. The wine is beautiful, vibrant, and alive on the palate.   The acidity is lively and balanced and the tannins add just enough structure while remaining completely velvety and seductive.

Overall, the La Stoppa wines truly give the impression of being alive.  They each have a unique character, are clearly the product of careful, yet natural winemaking, and completely engage all your senses.

Menu for Oceanic Dinners 2010

June 9, 10, 11, and 12mk_fish_big

Smaller items, soup, salumi, salads . . .

Crudo of local halibut, razor clams, blood clams, and Monterey Bay squid

Smoked local swordfish with Flavor Rosa and Flavorella pluots
and Espelette pepper

Terrina of brined king salmon, smoked sturgeon, and spring vegetables

Chilled octopus and pork ear soppressatas with Castelvetrano olive and smoky pimentón sauce

Yuzu and Prosecco-cured Boston mackerel
with pressed cucumbers and crême fraïche

Green urchin flan with old aceto balsamico
~
Roasted beets, orange cauliflower, and avocado with oenogarum and scallions

Salad of spring vegetables and sea beans with yellowtail jack botttarga maionese

Charcoal-grilled cuttlefish with preserved Meyer lemons and purslane
~
Soup: chilled squid ink soup with smoked sea scallops, white shrimp confit, and Monti Iblei olive oil
~
Polpettini of Monterey Bay squid with Fava beans and saffron

Fritto of steamer clam and wild fennel fritelle,
smoked trout croquettes, and frog’s legs

Pastas

Risotto alla pilota with baby octopus, asparagus, Fava beans, and crayfish butter

Ravioli of green sea urchin, fresh-dug Butterball potatoes, and leeks
with Riverdog Farm egg yolk

Rotolo di patate of salted black cod and squash blossoms with first-of-the-season bush Early Girl tomatoes

Goat’s milk ricotta cavatelli rigati with little Tomales Bay mussels, smoked bluefish, and English peas

Cannelloni rossi with lobster, local rockfish, and Morel mushrooms

Corzetti al sugo di pesce and Castelvetrano olives

Whole-milled Durum wheat spaghetti with Half Moon Bay sardines, Calabrian hot peppers, and wild fennel pollen

Wild nettle tagliolini with geoduck clams and Nocellino olive oil

Oceanic grills, roasts, sautées, and braises

Warm marinated yellowfin tuna with grilled piadina, wild arugula,
and new garlic aïoli

Gratinata of sand dabs, new potatoes, and artichokes; salsa vasca

Olive-oil-poached petrale sole alla ghiotta
with Tomales Bay Manila clams and Taggiasca olive panelle

Charcoal-grilled-rare yellowtail jack with Marin Miyagi oysters
and fried shoelace potatoes

Black sea bass in carozza stuffed with cuttlefish and first-of-the-season zucchini

Fried jumbo softshell crab and buttermilk biscuit sandwich with sauce remoulade and fennel slaw

Charcoal-grilled smoked shellfish and duck sausage with Ceci beans

DESSERTS

White peach-Prosecco Bellini sgroppino

Flavor Rosa plum gelato in almond tuile shells

Passion fruit soufflé with pink peppercorn crême anglaise

Mulberry-cornmeal cake with fig-leaf ice cream

Valrhona chocolate tart with fior di latte ice cream

Georgia whilte shrimp crema fritta

Hazelnut tozzetti

2017-09-12T15:48:42+00:00June 7th, 2010|2010, Events, Happened already...|0 Comments

In Preparation for Oceanic Dinners 2010

The kitchen has been busy this week testing dishes and laying the ground work for next week’s Oceanic Dinners. Chef Canales took some time to show us what he’s doing with a top loin from a large swordfish just in from Monterey Fish Company.

The fine print: The Monterey Bay Aquarium Sea Food Watch has deemed the local swordfish populations to be much healthier in recent years and put it back on the Best Choice list. The swordfish we serve is local and always caught using a hook-and-line method in conjunction with an O-hook, drastically reducing by-catch.

It should also be noted, that due to elevated mercury levels in swordfish a consumption advisory has been issued for women and those with mercury sensitivity.

Announcing Oceanic Dinners 2010

June 9 – June 12

At a time when many of us worry about what sort of fish we should be eating, one Californian reader kindly sent me the exemplary menu from a special seafood dinner held at Oliveto restaurant in Oakland.

It’s a fine example of a restaurant taking great care.”

-Nicholas Lander, Financial Times of London, Aug. 2009

MK fish510-547-5356
or reserve online

Oliveto’s Chef Paul Canales and fish purveyor Tom Worthington of Monterey Fish Company, in their yearly collaboration for our now widely-known oceanic event, have described June’s menu thus: it will be less sprawling than in previous years and more focused, a “curated” (as Paul says) event where each fish or sea creature will be chosen for some extraordinary characteristic or quality. Some thoughts they tossed around: “We’ll balance rustic and refined. Some dishes will be more composed, developed, conceptual, fussy, or edgy. Some more traditional. There will be great fish you don’t want to mess with-you keep that simple.” Tom will undertake a “culinary study”of one fish, using different cooking methods and accompaniments. Diners will catch subtle reflections of Paul’s 2009 trip to Japan; Tom’s recent sojourn in Spain likewise will inform some of the dishes.

Here are bits of the discussion that illuminate why we don’t know at this point what will be on the menu. “We get these great black cod from Josh Churchman, who fishes out of Bolinas. He goes six miles out, fishes hook and line 1,500 feet down. Last week he came back in one day with 1,000 pounds of cod. Yesterday he was out there and came back with 100.” “Local halibut is on a run, and there is no better raw fish.” “Rex sole is a great, under-appreciated local fish, and is delicious now.” “Water temperature is low, and local fish are less active.”

What we do know about the menu is that only the best of sustainably caught fish will be served, prepared thoughtfully by creative, passionate, skilled cooks with, in the main, an Italian sensibility.

Much of the à la carte menu will be available online a few days before the event’s start.

Two special wines on the list for Oceanic Dinners:

Alvarinho, Soalheiro, Vinho Verde, Portugal 2009-Unlike any Vinho Verde I’ve tasted before…significantly reduced yields resulted in amazing richness and density. Aromatic floral and nectarine notes interlace with intense minerality.

Listan Negra, “Maceración Carbónica,” Los Bermejos, Lanzarote-Canary Islands, Spain 2008-Made from the indigenous grape, Listan Negra, this has fantastic complexity and a delightful freshness. Pure, bright cherry and strawberry fruit are complimented by an herbal note and a distinctive smoky, ashy tone surely derived from the unique volcanic soils of the island.

-Chris Ryerson, Oliveto Wine Director

2017-09-12T15:48:43+00:00May 26th, 2010|2010, Events, Happened already...|0 Comments

Balsamic Vinegar Dinners 2010 – Menu

April 21, 2010 – April 22, 2010

Dishes Made with Young balsamico

Asparagus alla fiorentina with Brown Butter Spiked with balsamico

Black Cod marinated in balsamico and miso with balsamico-glazed smoked pancetta and Black Cod Skin Cracklings

Bollito of Paine Farm Pigeon Stuffed with Wild Boar cotechino Sausage, Sauce pevra

Brassato of Scottish Highland Beef Braised al balsamico with New Garlic and Potato Purée

Trompetti with Magruder Ranch Wild Boar coppa confit, pancetta, and balsamico

Northern Halibut with Leeks and balsamico Sauce

Warm Watson Farm Lamb’s Tongue and Little Spring Artichokes in Creamy balsamico maionese

Dishes for Middle Aged balsamico

Vellutata of Green Garlic and Almonds

Antipasto of Freshly-made Goat’s Milk ricotta, castelvetrano Olives, and Grilled piadina

Whole Wheat fettucine with Oliveto Goose prosciutto, Whole Garlic Clove Poached in vin santo, and Toasted Walnuts

Soul Food Farm Egg in carrozza with Cardoons, Celery, Walnuts, and Oliveto prosciutto

Tortelloni of Paine Farm Pigeon and Morel Mushrooms in lambrusco

Potato gnocchi with Parmesan fonduta

Crostone of Bay Shrimp with Fava and Sea Beans with aioli

Riso in bianco with pajata and Spring Vegetables

Whole-milled Durum pappardelle with braised artichokes

Red Flint polenta with polpettini of Magruder Ranch Wild Boar Cheeks, Tongues, Hearts, and Liver

Linguine with crême fraiche



Dishes for Old balsamico

Crostini misti of Creamy Monkfish Liver pȃté, Avocado, and Spring Onions

Spring cassoulet of Liberty Duck, Shellfish Sausage, with Fresh Fava and ceci Beans

Duck Liver panna cotta

Charcoal-Grilled Tagliata of Grass-fed Scottish Highland Beef Ribeye with bagna cauda crema, bianca di spagna Beans and Spinach

Spring Salad of First of the Season Porcini Mushrooms, Fava Beans, Aparagus, and Parmesan croccante

Poached Hoffman Farm Hen Breast with pioppini Mushrooms, Cardoons, and Sauce Chantilly

Braised Rabbit and Leeks in bianco with Bitter Olives

Garganelli with English Peas and prosciutto cotto

Crudo of Watson Farm Lamb

*

please call for reservations 510-546-5356

or reserve online

2017-09-12T15:48:44+00:00April 16th, 2010|2010, Events, Happened already...|0 Comments

Dinner for Castello di Verduno

by Chris Ryerson

The Castello di Verduno, owned by Gabriella Burlotto and Franco Bianco, is a beautiful old building at the top of the village of Verduno, on the edge of the Barolo zone. Virtually unknown outside of Italy, Castello di Verduno produces a variety of Piedmontese wines in a classic style. The label unites two cellars, one under the castle in the Barolo zone and the other near the famous ‘cru’ Rabajà, in the Barbaresco area. Wines are produced in Barbaresco and bottled and stored in Verduno. The vineyards owned by Verduno are the Barbaresco crus, Faset and Rabajà, the last being one of the best vineyards in Barbaresco, and the Barolo crus Monvigliero and Massara. All wines are vinified traditionally by Mario Andrion, the talented young enologist who took over the cellar in 2000. The estate also produces a small amount of delicious Langhe Nebbiolo, and an excellent example of the variety indigenous to Verduno, Pelaverga.

Wine maker Mario Andrion will be with us in the restaurant for dinner Wednesday, March 3, 2010.  The menu will be à la carte as usual and the following wines will be served by-the-glass and in flights:

Pelaverga Piccolo “Basadone” 2008

Langhe Nebbiolo 2008

Barolo “Monvigliero” 2000

Barbaresco “Faset” 1998

Barbaresco “Faset” 1999

Barolo “Monvigliero” 1996

510-547-5356 or reserve online

Dinner with Canalicchio di Sopra

February 25, 2010

Traditional-style Brunello producer Francesco Ripaccioli, of the small, very fine estate Canalicchio di Sopra, will spend the evening with us Thursday, February 25. A number of his wines will be available by-the-glass and in flights, and Francesco himself will be available throughout the evening to discuss Brunellos in general and Canalicchio in particular. The menu will be à la carte, with some special additions in honor of our guest. Please join us.

510-547-5356 or reserve online

The following Canalicchio di Sopra wines will be featured:

Rosso di Montalcino 2007

Brunello di Montalcino 1998
Brunello di Montalcino 1999
Brunello di Montalcino 2000
**Or, enjoy a Flight of 2 oz. pours of 1998, 1999, and 2000

Brunello di Montalcino 2004 (Tre Bicchieri Winner)

Also Available:

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1995
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1999