Tales from the Truffle Trade – Chapter 1

The Return of Autumn’s Greatest Gift

Tales from the Truffle Trade – Chapter 1

Oliveto Truffle Dinners November 13 to 17, 2018

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Some things don’t change:

  • Italian white truffles remain one of the world’s most wonderful intoxicants.
  • White Truffles are mysterious—they’ve never been farmed successfully.
  • The Oliveto Truffle Dinners are always the week before Thanksgiving. There’s a reason:

The Italian truffle fairs in Alba and many villages in Tuscany and Umbria begin in October and are pretty much gone by the second week in November, along with the tourists. Prices come down and quality usually improves with colder weather. And we’ve never wanted to compete with Christmas shopping. Hence this year the dinners are November 13 to 17.

Somewhat consumed by our new business, Community Grains, I no longer have the two weeks it takes to seek out truffles myself. Instead, we’ve found a trusted source to take over. We will, as always, offer the very best fresh truffles at the very best price, accompanied by Chef Jonah and Sous Chef Brian’s exceptional menu.

I’ve had such wonderful times sourcing truffles . . . experiencing great adventures and collecting exciting stories every year. Early on, before connecting with our beloved friends, truffle hunter Giorgio Sacchini and family, things were rather dicey. Here’s an excerpt from an article I wrote seventeen years ago for the LA Times—a trip down memory lane.

 

The Return of Fall’s Luxuries
Tales from the Truffle Trade
November 07, 2001 | BOB KLEIN | SPECIAL TO THE TIMES
I’ve never been a drug dealer, but a truffle trader has to be the closest of relatives. You drive down the lonely country roads of a foreign land, money bulging from every pocket, suspicious of any cars behind you, ready to take evasive action if required. You arrive at a nondescript storefront and pass into a featureless back room with a small precise scale. The merchandise is removed from a ragged kitchen towel. You scan the faces of the two or three men in the room, sniff and examine the goods and make the deal. Fistfuls of cash change hands. Upon your return to the States, the government’s drug-sniffing dog jumps all over you, and the metaphor is complete.

 

Truffle Dinners remain a favorite here. Menu to follow, as well as more… Tales from the Truffle Trade.

Giorgio’s haul for the day – truffles from 40 to 10 grams

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2018-10-25T12:51:43+00:00October 25th, 2018|Coming up..., Events, This Just In, Uncategorized|0 Comments
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We’re looking forward…

We’re looking forward…

It was chilly this morning, yes? We’re starting to look at sweaters in the closet—it has begun. We’re looking forward to our favorite season for rich, full-bodied, soul warming food—Ribollita with new olive oil, great braises, food that calls for Barolos and Barbarescos, and of course truffles, all in the weeks to come.

This weekend—Tortellini of Black Futsu squash and sage in poultry brodo.

Lot’s more coming and Truffle Dinners are scheduled for November 13 through 17, now taking reservations.

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Online or Call 510.547.5356

2018-10-19T12:42:55+00:00October 19th, 2018|Coming up..., Events, This Just In, Uncategorized|0 Comments
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Shelley’s finding her slice

Shelley’s finding her slice

Oliveto’s beloved maitre d’ and GM Shelley Mulhall’s last evening at the restaurant will be this Saturday, September 29th. For those who’ve gotten to know and appreciate her—her gracious and knowledgable presence in the dining room and true concern for the comfort and enjoyment of her customers—the next few days would be a good time to stop by, wish her the best, and bid her adios. For she and her Irish husband Seamus will be heading off to a new life in Galicia Spain, making her departure at once heartbreaking and joyful for us and those who know her.

Shelley Mulhall’s lovely, genuine face has been known about the San Francisco and East Bay food scene for some time now, ever since she moved from Southern California to San Francisco, where she helped open McCormick & Kuleto’s and Boulevard. After working at Farallon and Jardinière, she came to the East Bay to become manager at Chez Panisse, before she and Seamus established their own restaurant on Park Blvd, a gem of a place in every possible way, right down to its name, The Growlers’ Arms. Its superb food, exquisitely detailed setting, and wonderful service weren’t enough to overcome the “riddle of popularity”––a travesty of the first order.

Shelley came to Oliveto in the fall of 2015, and we’ve been lucky to have had her in our midst for a precious 3 years.

Now she and Seamus have found their perfect place in Galicia, in the northwestern-most part of Spain, with rooms and small guest houses for vacationers and groups who need the right spot for small retreats. In the heart of the green part of Spain, bordering on Portugal, near fine beaches and beautiful rivers, with the Camino de Santiago pilgrims’ route traversing it, boasting a cuisine the great chefs of Bilbao admire, the gorgeous Santiago de Compostela and other medieval towns and cities, myriad intact Roman constructions, cycling routes, vineyards and wineries, their guest accommodations will be ready for travelers beginning in May 2019. You can reach them at seamusandshelley@gmail.com.

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2018-09-26T13:03:01+00:00September 26th, 2018|Coming up..., Events, This Just In, Uncategorized|0 Comments
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Our beloved pigeons

Our beloved pigeons are finding their way back.

On the menu tonight, through the weekend.

Soon after our good friend Roger Paine sold his pigeon farm to local farmer William Henpenn, the horrendous Sonoma County fires struck. The Paine Farm escaped the flames, but it made pigeon farming very difficult and production suffered. William is committed to maintaining the high quality of the birds, and it’s been challenging to keep us supplied consistently. At least for now, they’re back. These are exceptional, meaty, great flavored birds. We’re glad they’re back.

This weekend is also Rockridge Out & About

Sunday, September 16th, 12pm – 6pm

We’ll be featuring our Rosticceria with:
Roasted Pork with Calabrese Sauce & Polenta*
Roasted Vegetable Ragù & Polenta*
Lasagne alla Bolognese
Pipe Rigate* with Pesto (cold pasta salad)Sangria
Beer
Lemonade & Iced Tea

*Community Grains
Come have a taste!

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Online or Call 510.547.5356

2018-09-13T10:53:25+00:00September 12th, 2018|Coming up..., Events, This Just In, Uncategorized|0 Comments
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Tomato Dinners – Menu Highlights

Tomato Dinners – Menu Highlights

Tomorrow August 21st to Saturday the 25th

Last Year’s Menu

The Tomato Dinners menu was released last week, and here are some highlights. These dinners start tomorrow night, Tuesday through Saturday:

Some are dishes we know and love, with upgrades–

Fried green tomatoes made with our red flint corn polenta, with shrimp and lobster rémoulade

Salad of heirloom tomato with compressed melon, mint, red onion, and Beldi olives

Confit of hook-and-line-caught albacore with tomato “aïoli,” marinated sweet peppers, and basil

Along with hardcore favorites—


Spaghetti all’amatriciana

Sampling of this year’s best tomatoes

Tomato-braised beef short rib with Costato Romanesco squash crema, brown rice, and tomato jam

Tomato-braised honeycomb tripe with hot pepper, oregano, and fiore sardo Pecorino cheese

 

The whole menu is a knock out.

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Online or Call 510.547.5356

2018-08-20T16:13:51+00:00August 20th, 2018|Coming up..., Events, This Just In, Uncategorized|0 Comments
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2018 Tomato Dinners Menu Released

2018 Tomato Dinners Menu

Next Tuesday August 21st to Saturday the 25th

Here is the first draft of the menu for next week. Some observations: We think the menu is particularly summery, and it is really all about tomatoes. We’ve named fewer of the varieties we’re going to be using here because we won’t make the final decisions until we get tomatoes in from our sources on Monday. Pastry Chef Andrew Chaney has also been working on several tomato desserts–more than we’ve had for a while.

Antipasti:  smaller items, soup, salads
Confit of hook-and-line-caught albacore with tomato “aïoli,” marinated sweet peppers, and basil
Sampling of this year’s best tomatoes –varieties to be determined Monday
Salad of compressed melon and heirloom tomato with mint, red onion, and Beldi olives
Antipasto of marinated peppers, cherry tomatoes, and cucumber with eggplantcrema and pine nuts
Red flint corn polenta, fried green tomatoes, and shrimp with lobster rémoulade
Charcoal-grilled flat bread with Early Girl tomatoes, burrata, and basil
Tomato-braised honeycomb tripe with hot pepper, oregano, and fiore sardo Pecorino cheese
Soup:  due of gazpachos—German Red and Marvel Stripe tomatoes with opposingsalsas

Primi
Spaghetti all’amatriciana
Whole grain bigoli with ragù of Early Girl tomatoes, guanciale, Cranberry beans, and Calabrian chili
Ravioli of burrata cheese with tomato crema
Squid ink risotto with Tuscan sausage, concentrated cherry tomatoes, and fennel pollen
Listada di Gandia eggplant tortelli with Early Girl tomatoes, garlic, and basil
Saffron chitarra with smoked trout, cherry tomatoes, squash blossoms, and lemon verbena

Secondi:  grills, sautés, roasts, and rotisserie
Charcoal-grilled California swordfish with stewed tomatoes, mussels, and fennel;harissa verde
Charcoal-grilled pigeon with tomato mostarda, seeded crostone, purslane, and liver mousse (while available)
Braised Walla Walla onion with farrotto stuffing, garlic-studded Early Girl tomato, and pickled Chanterelle mushrooms
Tomato-braised beef short rib with Costato Romanesco squash crema, brown rice, and tomato jam
Chicken and lobster boudin blanc with sun-dried tomato pesto, peperonata, and Cranberry beans

Dolci
Sorbetto of heirloom tomato
Red Zebra Stripe tomato jam ice cream
Mascarpone cheesecake with cookie crust of Edison whole wheat flour, toasted hazelnuts, and cocoa nibs
Tomato and black pepper jam, candied cherry tomatoes, and blackberry sorbetto
Bittersweet chocolate cake with tomato sauce, crème fraîche sherbet, and chocolate-pecan dentelle
Sungold tomato and raspberry cobbler with Edison whole wheat and oat crumble; vanilla ice cream

Menu will be à la carte. You won’t want to miss it.

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Online or Call 510.547.5356

2018-08-20T15:27:39+00:00August 17th, 2018|Coming up..., Events, This Just In, Uncategorized|0 Comments
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Introducing Oliveto Downstairs Public House Hour

We really liked this picture…

…so much that we thought we’d do something about it.

Beginning this Thursday, every night starting at 8pm, Oliveto Downstairs will offer a
Public House Menu:

  • $1.50 / Slice Pizza (first come, first served)

  • $6 seasonal punch special

  • Full Cocktail menu and Rosticceria menu available

Nothing fancy, just some simple, good quality food at a great price. No reservations needed downstairs.

And then Upstairs, we have the Tomato Dinners coming up. Starting Tuesday August 21st through Saturday the 25th. More to come on that menu soon, reserve now.

 

Reserve Online or Call 510.547.5356

2018-08-08T12:15:56+00:00August 8th, 2018|Coming up..., Events, This Just In, Uncategorized|0 Comments
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2018 Tomato Dinners Announced, August 21st to 25th

2018 Tomato Dinners Announced

Tuesday August 21st to Saturday August 25th

We’ve been throwing tomato parties for 28 years—joyful exercises in balancing what works and what’s new, creating menus of tradition and innovation. The tomatoes have continually gotten better, as farmers advance their growing skills, develop their soils, and plant the ever-growing number of tomato types.

We used to try to time our dinners to when the most tomatoes were at their peak, but now farmers routinely do multiple plantings, taking advantage of a longer and longer season.  As we know, things are getting hotter—good for tomatoes, anyway.

We’ll have the greatest tomatoes from our favorite farmers from different microclimates around northern California. Menus will soon follow, they will be à la carte.

So join us for Oliveto’s 28th (gulp) Annual Tomato Dinners.

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Online or Call 510.547.5356

2018-08-01T17:15:54+00:00August 1st, 2018|Coming up..., Events, This Just In, Uncategorized|0 Comments
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Heritage Lamb is in the Locker and on the Menu Tomorrow

Shepherds Lamb – Navajo Country & Mountains of New Mexico
One of Heritage Foods’ Farms

Lamb on the Menu

Friday and this weekend

When it comes to sourcing for our whole animal program, we like local, but we also like to support worthwhile traditional producers that are presented to us from Heritage Foods.  It’s a company that grew out of the Slow Food movement, sourcing meat from small American farms. We’ve gotten close to them over the years. Chef Jonah has visited some of their farmers in the mid-west, and we’re excited to offer one of their lambs.

The upside of getting the whole lamb is you’re able to get some great animals when they are at their best. The down side is that they’re frequently in very limited supply. We only have one lamb and we’ll be moving through it (on the menu) starting tomorrow night and through the weekend.

We’ll start by braising the shoulders with stock and aromatics for a ragu, and then Saturday and Sunday we’ll get into grilling the middle cuts, the loins and sirloins. Legs on Monday. Again, limited supply, be forgiving if we run out.

We hope you’ll join us.

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Tamarack Sheep Farm – Corinth, Vermont

Another one of Heritage Foods’ Farms

2018-07-26T17:13:28+00:00July 26th, 2018|Coming up..., Events, This Just In, Uncategorized|0 Comments
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The Underdog Dinners – Menus in order

France is victorious

The Underdog Dinners

Celebrating World Cup Victors This Week

The finals this weekend were exceptional games, and the order of underdogs is in. They will be simple 3-course $40 prix fixe menus, alongside our regular à la carte menu.

England (Wednesday July 18)
Chilled Watercress Soup; Bangers & Mash; Spotted Dick
with Crème Anglaise
Belgium (Thursday July 19)
Shrimp Croquettes; Mussels and Wine; Belgian Liège Waffles
with Speculoos
Croatia (Friday July 20)
Stuffed Peppers; Squid Ink Risotto; Fritule
France (Saturday July 21)
Salad of Roasted Vegetables Provençal; Bouillabaisse; 
Chocolate Religieuse

 

For those who missed the Bastille Day dinner this past Saturday night, Amina Edris, an extraordinary rising star soprano from New Zealand, gave a surprise performance of La Marseillaise. When she started to sing we could see jaws drop and awe–I don’t think anybody expected that level of performance. We were honored to have her here and loved the surprise, maybe we’ll do more of them.

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Paris erupts in celebration

2018-07-18T11:42:03+00:00July 16th, 2018|Coming up..., Events, This Just In, Uncategorized|0 Comments
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