Community Grains has been coming up with some terrific flour, and chefs and bakers on both coasts have been making exciting food with it. For example, our guest chef, Justin Smillie’s whole-grain pizza at Upland in New York is extraordinary. So as part of his visit with us, he suggested a pizza party.
We’ll serve Justin’s pizza and some of our own. Plus lots of other food.
For the past decade, Community Grains has been working to develop a better complete grain system. Based on the values of nutrient-rich soil, advanced whole milling, and radical transparency in our supply chain, we’ve developed whole grain wheat flours that are different from anything else that’s commercially available. By testing and improving over several years, we’ve arrived at the point where our Patwin variety x-fine wheat flour can compete head on with white flour for texture and mouth-feel, with enormous upsides in nutrition and taste, while at the some time growing a better, soil-based local grain economy.
Several weeks into his new position, Chef Brian is ready for his announcement. He’s happy with his new menu, as are we. We’re ready! Come in this weekend, raise a glass with us, say hello.
For the past two years Chef Brian Griffith has been helping manage the Oliveto kitchen as Sous Chef—gaining a deep understanding of our largely Italian and California-Italian menu, and getting to know the sources particular to northern California farming for the best produce and meats, as well as Monterey Fish’s unsurpassed sustainable wild fish. His illustrious CV, which lists Table 6, Denver, Carlyle, Portland, and Kadeau, Copenhagen (renown two-star Michelin restaurant), expands the roots of his native Tennessee.
So when long-time, and exceptional, Oliveto Chef Jonah Rhodehamel felt it was time for a life change, we were deeply gratified and excited that Griffith would accept the position of Oliveto Executive Chef, and the challenge of refining and creating his own direction for our kitchen.
What we anticipate, and are already experiencing, from Chef Brian’s kitchen:
—A better balance of vegetables, meats, fish, and grains on the menu.
—A deeper examination of the possibilities the diverse produce available from local regenerative farmers offers.
—A deeper examination of butchering, curing, and cooking with heritage breeds of animals.
—Expanding the already exciting pasta offerings on our menu with our dedicated pasta maker, and widening the boundaries of traditional pastas.
At a time when serious diners in the Bay Area—and indeed in much of the world—are developing broader palates and more philosophically diverse directives as to what they eat, Brian has been considering how to make the myriad Italian culinary techniques fit happily on a balanced, creative menu, pleasing to both the traditionalist and the curious, demanding new eater.
MENU FOR VALENTINE’S DAY 2019
Stuzzichino: Parmesan cheese gougèreswith Perigord truffle mousse
Consomméof Liberty Farms duck
Antipastoof Maine lobster with blood orangegelée, fennel, andfines herbes
Acquerello Carnaroli risottoof Black Trumpet mushrooms and
Ravioliof sunchoke and beets withvin santo, apple, and 108-month-agedParmigiano Reggiano cheese
Pan-roasted black sea bass with celeriac, Lacinato kale, and Osetra
Roast Liberty Farms duck with Perigord truffle sausage, barley,
Seville orange, and sugo
Dessert selections tba
95. per person
A 20% pre-tax Service Charge will be added.
For our Dinners from Sicilly, Chef Jonah has been looking for a balanced menu between the simplicity and comfort of food from the street, and the complexity and refinement of food from the home, both modest and grand. Here’s what he came up with.
Menu for Sicilian Dinners
January 29 through February 1, 2019
Sierra mackerel alla stimpirata
Salad of winter citrus with Castelvetrano olives, pistachios, and wild oregano
Sausalito Springs watercress with Chanterelle mushroom conserva, sherry vinegar,
and walnut brittle
Goat spitini with marinated olives
Cured and smoked swordfish with winter vegetable caponata
Soup: zuppa di ceciwith cipolline onion agrodolce
Rigatoni with cauliflower, pine nuts, and raisins
Spaghetti with sea urchin
Pasta grattata with Delicata squash and ricotta
Potato gnocchi with ragù alla salsiccia
Tagliolini with white anchovy, garlic, chili, and bottarga di muggine
Ravioliof ricotta and mint with walnut pesto
Secondi: grills, sautés, roasts, and rotisserie
Grilled tuna sausages with tomato-braised escarole, fennel, and breadcrumbs
Red-wine-braised duck leg with polentaand rapini
Pistachio-crusted monkfish with braised Treviso radicchio and Seville orange marmellata
Spit-roasted goat with Yukon Gold gratin and salmoriglio
Contorno: canederli of braised goat with fiore sardopecorinocheese
Desserts: to come
New Year’s Eve 2018 Menu
Stuzzichino: Chanterelle mushroom soup with Perigord
Salad of Dungeness crab, winter citrus, and avocado
Hudson Valley foie gras torchon with huckleberries and
Acquerello Carnaroli risotto of 101-month aged Parmigiano
Reggiano cheese and roast poultry sugo
Tortelloni of fontina alla valdostana with candied walnuts
and Perigord truffle honey
Roast Bandera quail with Kabocha squash, radicchio,
pomegranate, and old aceto balsamico
Pancetta-wrapped wild venison loin with parsnip crema,
cranberry confitura, and juniper
Pan-seared big eye tuna with Hachiya persimmon, fennel,
radish, and golden beets; pine nut salsa
Desserts, to be announced
Vegetarian options will be available
Jonah’s prix fixe dinners are exquisite, perfectly balanced, properly portioned, and delicious.
Prix fixe menu—Five course, early seating 5:00 to 6:30 • $ 90.
Six course, late seating 7:45 to 9:15 • $ 135.
Last week, the initial meeting between Tom Worthington of SF-based Monterey Fish Market and Chef Jonah and Sous Chefs Antoine and Brian took place in our dining room.
In under an hour Tom described much of what the chefs needed to know about the sustainably caught or harvested fish, crustaceans, mollusks, and so on that will be available to them at the end of June so they can start to plan their menu.
Jonah et al. change our menu often, so our dishes never lose their freshness. But these dinners will give them the chance to use scores of exceptional fish, the best available in the world, and create something uniquely special and exciting for our diners as well as satisfying and fulfilling for themselves.
Here is the preliminary (understandably incomplete—the oceans are unpredictable) list from which they’ll build a menu:
Octopus (local and Spanish)
Shellfish—mussels, Manila clams, razors (and more, probably)
Black sea bass
Mackerel, Sierra and Boston
Abalone (little guys)
Shad roe—Connecticut R. or Columbia R.
Sand dabs (possibly)
Monkfish and livers
Tuna blood line
We’ll send updates (and factoids) to keep you informed about Oceanic Dinners 2017 as the event takes form.
We request a credit card to hold your reservation.
There’s a sweetness and a delicate texture to Maryland blue crabs that simply can’t be compared to our Dungeness, so we’re indulging ourselves with an East Coast summer treat. We’re battering and frying these small, yet oh-so-tasty crabs and serving them with a romesco verde, frisee, and almonds.
Come in, enjoy the summery sunlight coming through our windows, and eat something absolutely rare and delicious.